Today was pretty laid back. Wes and I slept late and ate a leisurely breakfast in the club room before venturing out to discover more of Buenes Aires. And what better way to travel through the city than by Subte (subway)? Walking over to the Subte was simple and we were delighted to discover that the Teatro Colon was right on the way. Regretfully, the shows were already booked for the evening and the tours had shut down early due to an important holiday tomorrow. What’s the saying…you snooze, you lose! Aw well, it wasn’t on the top of my list but would have been interesting. But my real focus today was on seeing a few of BA’s famous neighborhoods so within a few blocks of the theater, we located a Subte stop and paid a very reasonable fee to get us to Palermo Soho.
The subways here mirror those in New York City and are the fastest and cheapest way to travel to some parts of BA. And there are always musicians to entertain you while en route. I promise, one guy played the keyboard like he belonged in Carnagie Hall. Why hasn’t he been discovered yet? He’s playing on a subway for a few pesos, just trying to survive. Such talent!
When we arrived in Palermo Soho, we strolled for a few minutes around Plaza Italia, admiring yet another of BA’s historical statues, then walked a few blocks down the street until we spotted a local curbside cafe, El Preferido, where we plopped down and ordered a scrumptious lunch. When the waiter didn’t seem in any hurry to bring us a menu, I had to remind myself that Argentines take their time to eat (no such thing as grabbing a quick bite). So I leaned back in my chair and just enjoyed gazing at the surrounding tree lined streets. Yes, this was my kind of neighborhood, I immediately decided – very Bohemian. No wonder it’s frequented by young Argentines and foreign travelers alike.
After lunch, we meandered further eventually coming upon Plaza Serrano which was covered with people wandering in and our of the cafes, bars, and multiple arts and crafts booths. Since we had done enough shopping yesterday, we decided to leave Palermo and head over to Recoleta where Eva Peron is buried. The subway was quick but the walk from the station to the cemetery was not. Thus, by the time we reached the cemetery, one of the most noted and beautiful in the world, it had closed. (But not to fear, we will reschedule this stop for first thing tomorrow morning). So Wes and I enjoyed strolling through the park, especially under the branches of one of the grandest trees I’ve ever seen. It reminded us somewhat of a banyan tree but much larger. Wish I knew the name of it!
And thankfully, there was an open cathedral right next to the cemetery so we quietly entered and stood at the back for just a few minutes, listening to the mass. Although neither of us are Catholic, we do appreciate the serenity and beauty of mass.
By this point we were so relaxed that we decided to stay in laid back mode so we sat on a couch in the outside bar overlooking the park, just sipping on a cool drink and nibbling on guacamole.
After resting a while, we became total slugs so ended up hailing a taxi to haul us back to our hotel. I figured that was it for the night but I was mistaken. The clock struck 10 and we knew it was time for dinner (that’s when Argentines eat and we definitely want to fit in) so we walked over to La Chacra – a true Argentine restaurant, complete with a fiery spit grill cooking all sorts of juicy red meat, heads of deer and buffalo accusingly peering at us as we ate, and a big brown horse to greet us at the door. Wes said the place reminded him of Texas! The food was definitely up to Texas standards, especially the lamb, so juicy and tender! Such a great way to end our lazy day!